Floral and Red Pin-tucked Blouse

Over the last month I have been making a blouse for my City and Guilds course. I designed the blouse using an idea from a 1980's commercial pattern, but modernised it and added some embellishment.

                                         The progress so far.

I drew my design on paper and made the toile, which fitted me quite well. 

I wanted to make the main blouse in a floral fabric; with the front panel, the collar and the cuffs in a contrast fabric. I am pin tucking and machine embroidering these contrasting areas. I decided to pin tuck the fabric first before cutting out the front section. 

To ensure the pin tucking was straight I tacked where the centre front line of the blouse will be, then marked out the pin tucking lines. To keep my lines straight I pulled the tacking thread in a straight line along the fabric, then put in pins to mark the lines, then tacked where the pins were.  It was an easy way to be sure I did not wobble!!

I pressed each line for the pin tucking and removed the tacking before I stitched rows and rows of pin tucks close to the folded edge of the fabric.  By removing the tacking before I stitched I did not get tangled up with the tacking thread and the thread of the pin tucks. 

The pattern was laid on the fabric after pin tucking and the outline was tacked to enable me to see how much pin tucking I needed to do. 

After all the pin tucking was complete, I ran rows of machine embroidery stitches in the pin tucked channels.  The stitches are pre programmed in my machine, so I just chose two patterns I liked, that were also an appropriate match for the floral fabric. 

I've stitched the shoulder seams in place and started to construct the blouse. The front and side panels, the back panel and side backs are in place and the sleeves are in.  It's just a matter of the collar and cuffs and it will be done. With this done, I only have another three garments to make for the City and Guilds course I'm doing. 

Progress on my Jeans

The jeans went together well, apart from the top-stitching issues. With the zip and pockets completed, it just left the waistband to do and the hem.

I used the contrast fabric which I used on the pockets to complete the inside of the waistband, here I'm just stitching in the ditch to hold it firm, then more top stitching.  I will not put on belt carriers, because I don't intend wearing a belt! 

To personalise my jeans I embroidered my initials by hand, inside the front pocket. The more work I do on these jeans, the more I like them.  I just love the bold colours I've used to top-stitch and embellish them.

This is a front view of the finished jeans, I have not yet worked out how to take my own photo wearing the finished clothes I make.

My final picture shows inside the waistband with the same contrast fabric I used for the pockets. If I'd had enough fabric I could have used it for the inside of the fly too.  But it was just a piece of patchwork fabric I had left over and thought it would be a good idea to experiment on the effect and I think it worked well.

I have worn the jeans and had loads of compliments, so I am really pleased. They are so comfortable to wear, I think I have made a perfect fit. Now I am very happy. What shall I do next?

The jeans challenge

I thought it was going to be easy doing my jeans, but my machine had other ideas.
I struggled to stitch them, I tried using different jeans needles, then different threads, and  also different feet. But the thread continued to split and the stitches jumped.  So I stopped working on them and decided to take them to my course on Tuesday and see if I could use a machine there to sew them.  It was the top stitching that was causing all the problems.

 Look how easy they were to sew on a mechanical and not an electronic machine which I use at home.  I think it's time to dust off my old treadle machine and use that.  My top stitching worked a treat. I had seen an article in the November issue of Threads - 'Why bother sewing Jeans?' and thought the idea of using two-toned top stitching was great. Little did I know this lovely idea would give me so much grief.

I have got on quite well now, the back pockets are in place and stitched, I sewed them together and I have tried them on to check the fit.  They are OK in most places, but they do need a slight adjustments on the side seam.  Hopefully I can finish them now and very soon be wearing them. 

I need more hours in my day!

There just aren't enough hours in the day to do everything.  I started another City and Guilds course in June a Level 3 in Fashion Wear.  I had hoped to have time to chart my progress, but here we are 14 weeks into the course and I've written about nothing.

So far I have been doing a lot of pattern drafting. Making pattern blocks which is the first stage, once they are OK  I have developed my own patterns.  I bought this wonderful Helen Joseph Armstrong book on Pattern Making for Fashion Design and it's brilliant.  The first block I drafted fitted me so well.  I am now totally hooked on her method of pattern making.

I drew out the pattern and with a couple of alterations did a toile and it was great a good fit.   The trousers I then made from the pattern I did were good too, I just need to add another picture of the completed trousers now. But you can see the toile is a nice fit.

I have done a blouse block and pattern and a jacket block and pattern.   I want to make a cardigan jacket and will be starting that very soon.  Because now I have done the blocks and patterns its time to start to sew my garments and I will soon have something to show you, because paper patterns are not much fun to write or read about!!

I was so pleased with the way the trousers turned out, I did the slacks block and a pattern from the book too, there is work in progress toiling it at the moment.  As things have gone so well, now I have decided to have a go at doing some jeans.

I am now going to trial the pattern for the jeans straight on to denim, the toile was a good fit, just a few adjustments on the block as the notes on the photo below show. With them done, I drew out the pattern and won't toile it again, but make myself a pair of jeans straight away. Who knows I could be wearing them this time next week!!

I have decided to use a cotton fabric for the pocket linings, the inside fly and the inside of the waistband  With the pattern on the fabrics all pinned on ready to go.

Next job is to cut out and I can start to stitch tomorrow.  I can't wait to get sewing. 

What happened to the last few weeks?

The last few weeks have been hectic here. Making jam, fruit purées, ice cream, fruit cordials and much more. The allotment has had an abundance of soft fruit and every minute spare has been spent working on either the allotment, picking fruit, working in the garden or inside cooking and preserving.

During July I picked over 15 kilos of strawberries and 15 kilos of raspberries.  Since then, there has been many more raspberries.  But sadly the strawberries are over, so they have been tidied up, and the runners potted up for future planting.

Last week I picked more fruit, this time with the help of my sister.  So far this year there has been 12 kilos of blackcurrants and 10 of redcurrants.  We did not have many gooseberries, but enough to make some jam. While she was here my sister helped me make 16 jars of jam, some of which she put in her case to take home with her!

Our harvest last week included squash, cabbage, garlic and potatoes and all this fruit, and there is much more to come.

Working hard, picking, weeding and even planting, yes, the winter cabbages, broccoli and cauliflowers are all ready to go in now, so there is fresh veg' during the winter months. Once the potatoes are up, there will be room to plant the winter crops. 

There are so many redcurrants, my next project is to have a go at redcurrant jelly. 

A great day out in London

A Life in Colour – Kaffe Fassett
at the

Fashion and Textile Museum London

On Friday 28^th June, I visited this exhibition with my sister and niece. As we stepped through the door into the exhibition hall we became absorbed in the inspiring work that Kaffe Fassett has done over the last 50 years.

From my first encounter with his designs, I have become mesmerised in the way he puts colours together and creates his wonderful textiles. The chance to see the work itself just could not be missed and we found this trip was totally riveting.

I just loved this quilt and wish I had time to make a quilt myself.  But I shall just have to enjoy looking at the many photos I took whilst I was there, and keep dreaming of the day when I have time to create my own quilt.

This knitted quilt reminded me of the tumbling block jumper I knitted years ago.  I used a pattern from his book Glorious Knitting and I was pleased that it turned out so well. My jumper has not worn as well as this quilt!!

Kaffe is so versatile, he explores textile art in many ways, these shoes caught my nieces eye, now she wants to make a pair for herself.  I'd like to have a go too, if only there were kits available to make shoes.

I've liked this cardigan for years, ever since I first saw it in one of Kaffe's books, now I must make it, seeing it for real has certainly inspired me.

This waistcoat is quite beautiful and it is just the kind of thing I'd do for myself.   With all this inspiration from the trip, I just need the time now to start stitching.  

I took many more pictures, but decided just to share a few here. 

It was a truly remarkable exhibition, and we all came away wanting to make something remarkable for ourselves. Back home we are now inspired to start working on our first project.

The Knitting Novice

I've always had a knitting project on, but I generally keep it simple.  Then it's normally a year before it's finished.  But since my retirement in 2010, I've been doing a bit more knitting, getting more adventurous and also quicker.

I've just completed another jumper for myself.  It's taken about six months, but I did go wrong once and had to unpick a lot. Now it's finished I am pleased with what I achieved.

A couple of months ago this book caught my eye and I've chosen a pattern from it for my next project.  It is far more ambitious that I have ever been before with my knitting, so it might just test my skills to the limit. And it's the first time it's not going to be for me. 

This lovely book by Patty Knox is published by David and Charles, it's full of great patterns and I have decided to have a go at Catch a Wave on page 66

There is a problem, the pattern is for sizes 28 to 40 chest and I need to make it 42.  But luckily I have a very clever sister, whose knitting skills are far superior to mine and I have asked her advice about how to make a bigger size.  She often tells me what to do when I go wrong, and this time her help was needed again. In return I will give her tips and advice on her sewing projects. 

I've started my tension square, apparently very important, to ensure your knitting is the right tension and you are using the correct needles for the work. After all that work, you want it to fit right.

I bought the wool from Jamieson & Smith, which is genuine Shetland Wool from the Shetland Isles and the lady on the phone help me with advice on my colour selection. www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk

This might take a while, but I will report progress from time to time.

Things are growing at last this year

There are potatoes, onions, strawberries, beans, peas and cabbages, all beginning to grow at last on our allotment plot.

After a slow start to the season, finally things are improving. I have five raised beds full of potatoes and the big bed at the top of the picture on the right with all the onions in. With any luck these will keep us going until the spring!

It's all go at this time of the year, these onions already need to be weeded, again.

The broad beans don't look much at the moment, but they will soon fill out. One or two have flowers on already, so that looks promising.  I generally stake each plant, as I find just a few canes and string around the rows never works on our plot.  This time two years ago we had already been eating our beans, but not for the last couple of years. Will the weather every get back to what it was like when we took on this allotment six years ago?

These potatoes have come through now, they have been in over a month. More updated photos to follow.  The strawberries in the centre of this photo are all in flower now, so with any luck, we won't be long before we are eating our own fruit.  If last year is anything to go by we could be in for another bumper crop.  At lease something is growing well.

I want to plant my sweetcorn, leeks, spinach and celeriac just as soon as the rain stops and have a general tidy up on the plots.   It's amazing how quickly the rubbish piles up. 

Making a Waistcoat for Ross

Buying fabric these days gets more difficult. Fabric shops are not as easy to find as they were 20 years ago.  Purchasing from the internet is fine and companies will send samples. But I like to see a large sample of what I'm buying especially as I am about to spend a good few hours making a nice garment.

My nephew came to stay on Monday, so I could make him a waistcoat. He is going to a wedding in July and needs to be dressed for the occasion. We went into Birmingham after lunch to find the fabric.  

This 100% silk fabric was just what he wanted, so first thing Tuesday morning, I checked the toile again for fit and style and started to cut out and stitch.

While I spent the day sewing, Ross worked in my garden, dead heading, weeding and watering.  Then after 6 hours I just had the button holes to do and the buttons to put on and it would be finished. Being navy blue, it was getting difficult to see well to sew, so I stopped for the day. 

Early Wednesday morning in good light I finished the waistcoat, gave it a press and it was ready to admire.

Job well done I think.  Not only could he now return home, but complete with waistcoat and a boot full of plants for his garden. 

The Chelsea Flower Show was amazing

Yesterday I went for my first every trip to the Chelsea Flower Show it was amazing. I loved every minute, it was so exciting. 

The secret sewing I've been working on over the last few weeks can now be revealed. I made this jacket using a cacti print for my friend Vicky. We found the fabric in February and thought it would be perfect for her Chelsea outfit this year. She is co owner of Craig House Cacti with Stan her partner, who are exhibiting at the show. 

Their display was awarded another Gold Medal, their fifth at Chelsea.  It was a great display, as usual.  They were very busy while I was there with a lot of people stopping to admire their stand and to buy cacti and seeds from them.

  
Stan has a waistcoat in the same fabric.  It was a challenge to work on because the pattern repeat was so big, getting all the pattern pieces from the fabric we bought was difficult.  But I think they both look very grand and complimented their beautiful plants very well. 

The rest of the show

There was so much to see, all the show gardens were wonderful.  Here are some of my photos, I took over 50, so I will just show a few.

The Massachusetts Garden caught my eye because of the leather appliqué, it was beautiful, such a great combination of artistry in this garden, it is very inspiring.

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The garden I liked the most was the RBC Blue Water Roof Garden. Which is a vision for an urban rooftop garden.  It was full of good ideas and biodiversity.

I just loved the living wall and the clever use of shapes in the design.

As well as the way the circular shapes for the natural habitat feature was constructed.

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Finally the photo I took which I liked the most was this one of the M & G Centenary Garden, there is something about this picture that makes me pleased it is my photo.

A day out at Rockingham Castle

Our friend is visiting us from Germany, yesterday we went for a day trip to Rockingham Castle. It was a great day out.

Rockingham is a wonderful castle, still lived in by the family who owns it, but is open to the public.  It's well worth a visit.  The castle if full of amazing things, there are beautiful glass chandeliers and wall lights in one room that are stunning.

The local Embroider's Guild have restored some exquisite embroideries in another room, they look beautiful now they are complete.  The wood work is outstanding, carved pieces and lots of marquetry  It was a pity photography was not allowed inside the castle. I would have liked to photograph the embroideries in particular.  But outside I make up for it.

A view from the castle grounds.

We climbed to the top of this tower to enjoy the panorama.

At the top we could see for miles

 During my visit I found lots of inspiration for my sewing work, designs and ideas from the natural environment at the castle inspired me. I could not resist taking the following pictures.

Growing on the walls the moss and ivy looked lovely in the sunshine.

The textures in this photo just want to be transformed into an embroidery! 

The patterns, shapes and colours of the bricks are so varied here. More inspiration.

I can't help but be amazed at nature, roots above ground make a wonderful pattern.

Even when nature takes over, this branch still looks good, what an amazing texture the tree now has. 

Oh! yes, I have been sewing, a lot recently, but I could not blog about it as what I've been doing is a secret at the moment still.   Over the last three weeks I have been making an outfit for a lady who is going to a wedding, a lovely green dress and jacket.  And also I've made something special for my friends to wear to the Chelsea Flower Show, but the photos of that will be in my next blog