Fitting and amending the toile

Fitting the toile

My tailoring teacher Doreen, fitted my jacket toile at the last Wednesday class before the half term holiday. It made the next steps for me far easier. It is difficult to see your own back when fitting, and I know I have a sway back and it would need attention. I have to make this adjustment on every garment I make. Also a critical eye to help with any issues is always a good thing, so it was much appreciated. She picked up a few areas that will need attention.

The pins mark the problem areas

I need to make five adjustments to the toile and check the fit again.

1. The side seam needs to be increased from a) under the arm to just below the waist, b) decreased from the waist down to the finished hem. I don't really have any hips!!
2. The jacket is tight under the arms and certainly won't allow me to wear a blouse or top underneath it comfortably.
3. There is too much fabric on the waist line at the back, it needs reducing.
4. Finally the collar stands out and needs to be tightened.

I am pleased with the toile even with all the amendments I need to make. This will improve the look of the finished garment, if I make the changes now.

 I need to make the amendments to my pattern. Firstly I always put a note of the alterations I am making in with the pattern, it will be an aid memoir for the next time I use the pattern. Then I adjust the paper pattern pieces so the fit is perfect for me, before I use them to cut the fashion fabric out.

I have adjusted the side seam taking off 0.7cm at the hip. But need to add from just below the waist 0.5cm extending this up to the under arm. This can be seen in the photograph. These changes needs to be done on both the back and front side pattern pieces.

The pattern was also altered by scooping it down under the arm on the front and back side pattern pieces to allow for the tight fit to be adjusted. This adjustment is now 1.4cm, as it includes the adjustment already made, plus the additional adjustment to address the tightness. (0.5cm + 0.9cm = 1.4cm) You may just see where my red pen marked the pattern before I cut it out in the next photograph.

Alterations made to the pattern.                                      Adjustments made on toile.                                    

                                                                                                                                                              

The sleeve pattern was also adjusted at the under arm point to address the tightness and balance the alteration made in the side seam under the arm area. I've added to the pattern at the sides, by the same amount I put into the side seams 1.4cm. I have also lowered the sleeve at the under arm point, but not yet cut it off (in the photograph), this is marked with the red line.

Sleeve adjustment

The sway back is corrected by folding out a tiny pleat across the back at the waist line. The red arrows in the photograph show where the pattern has been taped to make this adjustment for my size. The grain line has been redrawn on the side back panel, because the adjustment has altered it.

Back waist line alteration

Adjustments made on toile

Once the pattern alterations and the toile alterations are done I will fit and check the toile again to make sure it's right. Before cutting into the fashion fabric.

The collar will be adjusted next time.

It's hard work on the allotment

Yesterday a local gardening company delivered to our allotment site a great big pile of bark chippings.  And it was all free, they said there was another load for later in the day and told us to help ourselves.  I was on the plot repairing the fruit cage and could not miss the chance of topping up our paths with these chippings, because over the last few months the paths have been getting very patchy and untidy.

With the fruit cage back in good order, I collected the wheel barrow from home and set about loading it up with the chippings from the pile which had been left in the car park.  It was not far transporting it down the path to my plot. I lost count on how many journeys I made.

I started my challenge at midday and at 2.30 p.m. was feeling very tired and hungry, it was well past my lunch time!! I decided that was enough for the day.  But bright and early today I went back to finish the job.  Another 4 hours and the job was complete, Mike helped me, so in all it took the two of us about 13 hours.  Even if it was hard work, I think the end results are worth it. 

The view from the top path looking down towards the fruit frame with all the paths finished.

Looking up towards the shed from the bottom of the plot.  A few red cabbages have survived the winter in this bed, but the crop was poor last year. 

Looking across the plot from the side, the strawberry plants on the left are looking good. I hope the yield this year is as good as last year, if one thing grew well, it was the strawberries.

It is looking so much better now we have done this job, I must thank the gardeners for the bark.  Now it's time to start to tidy the beds and get ready to plant the crops!

Why make a toile?

The simple answer is, to get at good fit.

This picture shows a waistcoat toile.  It is a mock up of the garment you are going to make.

I always toile my patterns first whether they are my own or a commercial pattern. When cutting into expensive fashion fabrics you want to get it right before you cut out and not waste your lovely new fabrics. You can't make some adjustments or change the style once the fashion fabric has been cut into. A toile will only cost a few pounds, calico fabric is generally used here in England, which is cheaper to use, most of my toiles cost around £5. I can make the amendments, decide if the pattern style works for me and perfect the fit. I then make any changes and test it again in front of the mirror. Sometimes I will need to cut out a second toile and start again, but I can honestly say in the last five or so years, I have only needed to do this twice.

Time and effort at the early stages of your sewing makes for the perfect fit at the finish. And far better to spend a little time and a small amount of money toiling, rather than spoiling the fabric that has cost the earth or can't be replaced, because the shop has no more left!!

This photograph shows the layout of the commercial pattern I'm working with, Simplicity 3628, on some calico fabric.

Using a Quilters Rule makes checking grain lines easy, it is worth investing in one of these useful gadgets even if you are not a Patchworker. It stretches across the fabric to where the grain lines are on the pattern and can be lined up with the edge of the fabric to make this job effortless. Tape measures and normal rulers are fine, but using the Quilters Rule makes it quicker and it is very accurate.

After cutting out, I transfer all the markings from the paper pattern onto the calico using an HB pencil. There is no need to use tailors tacks or cut out notches into the seams on the toile. This cuts down on time too.

I mark all the normal points as if this is the fashion fabric. I also draw a line where the waist line is on the back and front, which helps with the fitting to ensure the waist on the pattern matches up with my own waist. The pockets placement lines can be drawn on so the positioning can be adjusted if need be at the fitting.

A final tip, I write the name of who the garment is being made for (especially if you sew for people other than yourself). Also the pattern company and pattern number and the size on the inside of the toile, so when I need it again I can find the right one easily.

Now I need to stitch it together and get it fitted. It is best to find a sewing 'friend' to help with fitting, because it is difficult to fit yourself well, especially the back of the garment.

I hope this explains what is meant by a toile. Please feel free to comment or ask any questions in the box below. If I know the answers I'll answer next time. My aim is to encourage people to sew for themselves and their families, it's a great hobby and a good way to get new clothes.

Next time the Fitting Stage

Another new project and its blue again!!

I fitted this coat toile in December and it went well; now to make the winter coat.

This beautiful blue wool fabric is lovely to work with, but it has shrunk rather too much.  I pre-shrunk it before cutting out, but when I bonded on the interfacing it shrunk again!!!!

It stitches nicely and I have started to sew the back sections and darts, and then tacked the rest together.  I needed to do this whilst my sister was staying with me this week, so I can check the fit again and then get on with the sewing.  I think she likes it even if it's only partly done.

It is a commercial pattern Simplicity 2311 and we have adapted the style a little.  It should have side pockets, but I am going to do welt pockets just on the hip line.  I won't do the belt that the pattern suggests which comes from around the back and finishes in the front seams.  Mainly because the belt is just above where the pockets need to go.

Apart from a small alteration on the front where I have put in the pins, there is nothing else that needs attention.  We had a quick trip over to Leamington Spa to buy some nice lining fabric that matches up brilliantly. All being well I can just stitch it together now. 

The back is a lovely fit and I don't think it will miss the belt.  Now the next job is to take it apart, make the pockets and begin the real sewing.

Progress is slow with the patchwork jacket I've been making, no construction yet, still quilting the finished sections. This is because, I have been very busy with cleaning out the orangery and greenhouse ready for planting my seedlings.  I have scrubbed, swept, disinfected and washed windows, doors and walls. Now the sowing can really begin.

I have set out my onions in cells just the same as I did for my garlic.   I've planted all the tomato seeds, aubergine, chilli and peppers, they are all snugly sitting in trays over heated mats, scattered on window sills around the house.  So, there is nothing to see yet, until the little shoots start to peep through.