Fitting
the toile
My
tailoring teacher Doreen, fitted my jacket toile at the last
Wednesday class before the half term holiday. It made the next steps
for me far easier. It is difficult to see your own back when
fitting, and I know I have a sway back and it would need attention. I
have to make this adjustment on every garment I make. Also a
critical eye to help with any issues is always a good thing, so it
was much appreciated. She picked up a few areas that will need
attention.
The pins mark the problem areas
I
need to make five adjustments to the toile and check the fit again.
- The side seam needs to be increased from a) under the arm to just below the waist, b) decreased from the waist down to the finished hem. I don't really have any hips!!
- The jacket is tight under the arms and certainly won't allow me to wear a blouse or top underneath it comfortably.
- There is too much fabric on the waist line at the back, it needs reducing.
- Finally the collar stands out and needs to be tightened.
I
am pleased with the toile even with all the amendments I need to
make. This will improve the look of the finished garment, if I make
the changes now.
I
need to make the amendments to my pattern. Firstly I always put a
note of the alterations I am making in with the pattern, it will be
an aid memoir for the next time I use the pattern. Then I adjust the
paper pattern pieces so the fit is perfect for me, before I use them
to cut the fashion fabric out.
I
have adjusted the side seam taking off 0.7cm at the hip. But need to
add from just below the waist 0.5cm extending this up to the under
arm. This can be seen in the photograph. These changes needs to be
done on both the back and front side pattern pieces.
The
pattern was also altered by scooping it down under the arm on the
front and back side pattern pieces to allow for the tight fit to be
adjusted. This adjustment is now 1.4cm, as it includes the
adjustment already made, plus the additional adjustment to address
the tightness. (0.5cm + 0.9cm = 1.4cm) You may just see where my red
pen marked the pattern before I cut it out in the next photograph.
Alterations made to the pattern. Adjustments made on toile.
The
sleeve pattern was also adjusted at the under arm point to address
the tightness and balance the alteration made in the side seam under
the arm area. I've added to the pattern at the sides, by the same
amount I put into the side seams 1.4cm.
I have also lowered the sleeve at the under arm point, but not yet
cut it off (in the photograph), this is marked with the red line.
Sleeve adjustment
The sway back is corrected by
folding out a tiny pleat across the back at the waist line. The red
arrows in the photograph show where the pattern has been taped to
make this adjustment for my size. The grain line has been redrawn on
the side back panel, because the adjustment has altered it.
Back waist line alteration
Adjustments made on toile
Once
the pattern alterations and the toile alterations are done I will fit
and check the toile again to make sure it's right. Before cutting
into the fashion fabric.
The collar will be adjusted next
time.
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