Why make a toile?

The simple answer is, to get at good fit.

This picture shows a waistcoat toile.  It is a mock up of the garment you are going to make.

I always toile my patterns first whether they are my own or a commercial pattern. When cutting into expensive fashion fabrics you want to get it right before you cut out and not waste your lovely new fabrics. You can't make some adjustments or change the style once the fashion fabric has been cut into. A toile will only cost a few pounds, calico fabric is generally used here in England, which is cheaper to use, most of my toiles cost around £5. I can make the amendments, decide if the pattern style works for me and perfect the fit. I then make any changes and test it again in front of the mirror. Sometimes I will need to cut out a second toile and start again, but I can honestly say in the last five or so years, I have only needed to do this twice.

Time and effort at the early stages of your sewing makes for the perfect fit at the finish. And far better to spend a little time and a small amount of money toiling, rather than spoiling the fabric that has cost the earth or can't be replaced, because the shop has no more left!!

This photograph shows the layout of the commercial pattern I'm working with, Simplicity 3628, on some calico fabric.

Using a Quilters Rule makes checking grain lines easy, it is worth investing in one of these useful gadgets even if you are not a Patchworker. It stretches across the fabric to where the grain lines are on the pattern and can be lined up with the edge of the fabric to make this job effortless. Tape measures and normal rulers are fine, but using the Quilters Rule makes it quicker and it is very accurate.

After cutting out, I transfer all the markings from the paper pattern onto the calico using an HB pencil. There is no need to use tailors tacks or cut out notches into the seams on the toile. This cuts down on time too.

I mark all the normal points as if this is the fashion fabric. I also draw a line where the waist line is on the back and front, which helps with the fitting to ensure the waist on the pattern matches up with my own waist. The pockets placement lines can be drawn on so the positioning can be adjusted if need be at the fitting.

A final tip, I write the name of who the garment is being made for (especially if you sew for people other than yourself). Also the pattern company and pattern number and the size on the inside of the toile, so when I need it again I can find the right one easily.

Now I need to stitch it together and get it fitted. It is best to find a sewing 'friend' to help with fitting, because it is difficult to fit yourself well, especially the back of the garment.

I hope this explains what is meant by a toile. Please feel free to comment or ask any questions in the box below. If I know the answers I'll answer next time. My aim is to encourage people to sew for themselves and their families, it's a great hobby and a good way to get new clothes.

Next time the Fitting Stage